Mini Cooper Footwell Module Reset: A Step-by-Step Guide

Your Mini’s lights won’t turn off, windows are acting weird, and you’re pretty sure your car’s possessed. Before you panic, there’s a good chance your Footwell Module just needs a reset. We’ll walk you through exactly how to fix it yourself, when you need professional help, and what’s actually going wrong inside that little computer.

What Is the Footwell Module and Why Does It Matter?

The Footwell Module (FRM) is basically your Mini’s electrical traffic controller. This small control unit sits behind the dashboard and manages a surprising number of functions you use every day.

Think of it as the middleman between your switches and the actual electrical components. When you flip on your headlights or roll down a window, the FRM receives that signal and makes it happen.

Here’s what your FRM controls:

• All exterior lighting (headlights, taillights, turn signals)
• Interior lights and ambient lighting
• Power windows and their automatic features
• Electric mirrors
• Central locking system
• Some climate control functions

When this module fails, it’s not just annoying—it can create safety issues reported to NHTSA, especially if your lights malfunction.

Different Mini Cooper generations use different FRM versions. Older models (2002-2008) typically have FRM1, while newer ones use FRM2 or FRM3. This matters because reset procedures vary between versions.

How to Tell If Your FRM Is Acting Up

Your Mini won’t exactly send you a text saying “Hey, my FRM’s broken.” Instead, you’ll notice weird electrical gremlins that seem unrelated at first.

The most common FRM failure symptoms include:

Lighting problems are usually the first red flag. Your headlights might stay on after you’ve locked the car and walked away. Or they won’t turn on at all. Turn signals could stop working entirely, leaving you to use hand signals like it’s 1950.

Window weirdness is another telltale sign. The one-touch automatic feature stops working, forcing you to hold the switch the entire way up or down. Sometimes windows won’t respond at all, or they refuse to drop slightly when you open the door (a feature designed to protect the window seals).

Mirror and locking issues pop up too. Your power mirrors might freeze in place, and the central locking system could act possessed—locking and unlocking randomly or not responding to your key fob.

Diagnostic communication failures are the most frustrating. You plug in a scanner and get nothing. The FRM just won’t talk to your diagnostic tools, making it tough to figure out what’s wrong.

Here’s a quick reference for matching symptoms to likely problems:

The Simple Reset: For R50/R52/R53 Models (2002-2008)

If you’ve got an older Mini Cooper, you’re in luck. These models have a manual ECU reset procedure that doesn’t require any special tools.

Here’s the step-by-step process:

Start with your key turned off and locate the odometer reset button on your instrument cluster. Press and hold this button down.

While holding the button, turn your key to position 1 (accessories on, engine off). Keep holding that button—don’t let go yet.

You’ll see the display cycle through test numbers. Keep pressing the button to scroll: 1, then 2, then 10, then finally 19. Each press advances you through the sequence.

When you reach test 19, wait for “L i-off” to appear on the display. Once you see it, press the button again.

Now scroll to “21.0 RESET” and press the button one more time. The system will process the reset.

Start your engine to complete the procedure. The FRM should now be reset to factory settings.

This whole process takes about two minutes once you get the hang of it. I’ve done it three times on my R53, and it’s fixed lighting issues every time.

One important note: Make sure your battery is fully charged before attempting this. A weak battery can cause the reset to fail or create new issues.

Short Circuit Reset: The Professional Approach

Modern Minis (2009 and newer) require diagnostic tools for a proper short circuit reset. This is the most common FRM issue you’ll encounter.

What actually happens during a short circuit fault:

The FRM detects too much current flowing through a lighting circuit (usually because a bulb failed or there’s a wiring problem). It immediately shuts down that circuit to prevent damage. Smart, right?

The problem is that even after you fix the underlying issue, the FRM “remembers” the fault and keeps that circuit disabled. You need to reset this memory.

Using a standard OBD2 scanner with FRM functions:

Plug your scanner into the OBD2 port (it’s under the dashboard on the driver’s side). Turn the ignition to position 1 without starting the engine.

Navigate through your scanner’s menu to find the FRM module. The exact path varies by scanner, but look for “Control Units” or “Modules,” then select FRM or Footwell Module.

Find the option labeled “Short Circuit Reset” or “FRM Reset.” Some scanners call it “Clear Adaptation” or “Reset Short Circuit Counter.”

Follow your scanner’s prompts to complete the reset. It usually takes 30-60 seconds.

The advanced Tool32 method:

Professional shops and serious DIYers use Tool32 software for more control over the reset process. This method lets you target specific circuits.

First, you need the correct program file. FRM1 modules use FRM87.prg, while FRM2 and FRM3 use FRM70.prg. Load the appropriate file based on your module version.

Select the “resetkurzschluss_sperre” job from the menu. (Yes, it’s in German—BMW didn’t bother translating everything.)

Enter the specific lamp ID for the circuit that’s failing. This is where it gets technical. Each lighting circuit has a unique identifier, and you need to know which one to reset.

Execute the reset and verify the fault has cleared. Test the affected lights to make sure they’re working properly.

A word of caution: If you don’t know what you’re doing with Tool32, you can accidentally change settings that mess up other FRM functions. When in doubt, stick with the simpler scanner method or hire a pro.

Fixing Your Windows After an FRM Reset

Here’s something they don’t always tell you: after you reset or replace your FRM, your power windows lose their memory. They forget where “fully open” and “fully closed” are supposed to be.

This means your automatic one-touch feature won’t work until you recalibrate them. It’s not broken—it just needs to relearn the window positions.

The standard window reset procedure:

Turn your ignition to accessory position (position 1 on older Minis, press the start button once without pressing the brake on newer ones). Don’t start the engine.

Pick a window to start with. Press and hold the switch DOWN until the window is fully open. Keep holding the switch for a full 10 seconds after the window stops moving. This teaches the FRM where “fully open” is.

Now press and hold the switch UP until the window is fully closed. Again, keep holding for 10 seconds after it stops. This sets the “fully closed” position.

Repeat this process for every window that needs resetting. Yes, it’s tedious, but it only takes a few minutes per window.

Test the automatic function by tapping the switch briefly. The window should now go fully up or down with just a quick press.

Alternative method for some models:

Some Mini Coopers have a simultaneous reset feature that’s faster. Insert your key and turn to position 1.

Hold both front window switches UP at the same time for several seconds (usually 5-10 seconds). You might hear a click or feel the windows “bump” slightly.

Test both windows to verify the automatic function works. If it doesn’t, fall back to the standard method above.

This simultaneous method doesn’t work on all Minis. If your windows don’t respond, don’t keep trying—just use the individual window reset instead.

When DIY Resets Won’t Cut It

Sometimes your FRM is beyond a simple reset. I learned this the hard way when my R56’s FRM got water damaged from a sunroof leak.

Signs you need professional repair:

Your diagnostic scanner can’t communicate with the FRM at all. You’ve tried multiple scanners, checked all the connections, and still get nothing. This usually means the module’s processor has failed.

You’ve successfully completed a reset, but the same problems return within hours or days. This indicates an underlying hardware failure that a reset can’t fix.

Physical damage is visible. Water stains, corrosion on the connectors, or burn marks on the circuit board mean you need component-level repair or replacement.

Multiple reset attempts have failed. If you’ve done the procedure correctly three times and nothing changes, something’s physically wrong with the module.

Professional FRM repair services typically offer:

Remote diagnostics let technicians connect to your car over the internet (if your FRM still communicates). They can pinpoint the exact fault without you shipping anything.

Mail-in repair is the most common option. You remove your FRM, ship it to the repair facility, and they fix it at the component level. Turnaround is usually 2-3 business days, and costs range from $150-$300.

On-bench short circuit reset handles stubborn faults that regular scanners can’t clear. Specialized equipment applies the reset directly to the module’s circuitry.

Water damage restoration involves cleaning corrosion, replacing damaged components, and resealing the module. Success rates are good if you catch it early, but water damage can be tricky.

Here’s a cost comparison to help you decide: