Got a scratch or chip on your Mitsubishi and need the exact paint code? Finding it sounds simple — until you’re staring at your engine bay wondering what you’re looking at. This guide shows you exactly where to look, model by model, so you get it right the first time.
Why the Paint Code Matters More Than You Think
Here’s the thing — your Mitsubishi’s color isn’t just “red” or “silver.” It’s a precisely engineered formula. Modern automotive finishes are multi-layer systems: a primer, a pigmented basecoat, and a protective clearcoat on top.
Some Mitsubishi colors — like White Diamond and Red Diamond — use a tri-coat system with an extra translucent mid-layer. You simply can’t eyeball that. One wrong code and your touch-up paint looks completely off.
The only way to nail it? Use the exact alphanumeric paint code from your vehicle’s identification tag.
And don’t trust the color name alone. The Mitsubishi paint code “R71” gets marketed as “Passion Red Clearcoat” on some models and “Speed Red Clearcoat” on others. Same code, different names. If you order by name instead of code, you’re rolling the dice.
What Is the Vehicle Information Code Plate?
Mitsubishi prints all its key factory data on what’s called the Vehicle Information Code Plate — sometimes a riveted metal plate, sometimes a durable vinyl sticker. It’s packed with alphanumeric data covering your engine, transmission, trim level, and crucially, your exterior paint code.
Here’s what you’re looking for on that plate:
- MODEL — chassis and trim configuration
- ENGINE — engine block identifier
- TRANSAXLE — transmission code
- COLOR, INT, OPT — this is your key section
The “COLOR” portion in that last string is your exterior paint code. On some older models, it’s labeled “EXT,” “Color No.,” or simply “Paint Code” instead.
Don’t confuse the interior code (INT) with the exterior one. Interior trim codes don’t translate to mixable exterior paint formulas.
Where Is the Mitsubishi Paint Code Location?
This is where it gets model-specific. Mitsubishi hasn’t always put the tag in the same spot. Here are the main places to check.
Driver’s Side Door Jamb
On most Mitsubishi vehicles built after the early 2000s, open the front driver’s door and look at the B-pillar — the vertical column where the door latches. You’ll find a compliance sticker there with tire pressure info, the VIN, and your paint code. It’s usually at the bottom mid-left of the sticker under “COLOR INT” or “Paint.”
This is your first stop. Check here before anywhere else.
Engine Bay: Firewall Locations
Older Mitsubishi models and some SUVs put the tag inside the engine compartment on the firewall — the metal wall separating the engine from the cabin. There are three common firewall positions:
- Center firewall — visible when you look over the engine block
- Passenger side firewall — far right when facing the engine
- Driver side firewall — can be hidden behind brake cylinders or wiring; use a flashlight
Radiator Core Support and Strut Towers
Some models place the tag on the radiator support — the metal frame at the very front of the engine bay holding the radiator and headlights. Check the center, driver side, and passenger side of this frame. Note that tags here often collect grime and heat damage, making them harder to read.
Hidden and Unusual Spots
If you’ve checked the door jamb and engine bay and found nothing, try these:
- Glove box interior — a secondary sticker on some models
- Under the front passenger seat — beneath a carpet flap on vans and light trucks
- Trunk or cargo area — under the trunk lid, inside storage compartments, or near the spare tire
- Under the driver’s dashboard — adhered to the underside, out of sight
Model-by-Model Paint Code Location Guide
Because Mitsubishi’s tag placement varies significantly by model, here’s a quick-reference table covering the full US lineup:
| Vehicle Model | Primary Code Location | Secondary / Atypical Location |
|---|---|---|
| 3000GT | Driver side firewall | Under trunk lid, rear side compartment, back of rear seat |
| Diamante | Center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Eclipse / Eclipse Cross | Passenger or center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Endeavor | Center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Galant | Passenger or center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Lancer / Evolution | Center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Mirage / Mirage G4 | Passenger or center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Montero / Shogun | Passenger firewall, radiator support | Driver door jamb |
| Outlander / Outlander Sport | Center firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Raider (Pickup) | Driver door jamb | Front passenger floor pan |
| Sigma / Precis | Passenger side firewall | Not applicable |
| Spyder | Passenger firewall | Driver door jamb |
| Van (L300) | Under passenger seat (carpet flap) | Engine bay |
One pattern stands out: sports cars like the 3000GT hide their tags in the trunk or behind rear seats. Mass-market SUVs and sedans like the Outlander and Eclipse Cross have moved to the standardized door jamb location.
What If the Tag Is Missing?
Missing tags are common after collision repairs, panel replacements, or repaints. If yours is gone, don’t guess.
Contact a Mitsubishi dealership’s parts department and give them your 17-character VIN. They’ll pull your original factory build sheet from the manufacturer’s database. Worth noting: the VIN itself doesn’t contain the paint code — it’s just the key that unlocks your vehicle’s full assembly profile.
The Mitsubishi Raider Exception: Chrysler Codes
Here’s a curveball — the Mitsubishi Raider is mechanically based on the Dodge Dakota. That means it uses Chrysler’s paint identification system, not Mitsubishi’s.
On a Raider, look for a tag labeled “PNT” instead of “COLOR” or “EXT.” The codes follow Chrysler’s three-character format — for example:
- PW7 — Arctic White / Bright White
- PDM — Mineral Gray Metallic
- PX8 — Carbide Black
If you try to cross-reference a Chrysler PNT code in a Mitsubishi database, you’ll get the wrong paint every time.
Understanding the Code Format
Mitsubishi paint codes typically follow a three-character alphanumeric format — something like W13, X42, or P62. Short, but precise.
One code can have multiple alternative identifiers used in internal manufacturing and parts databases. For example:
| Short Code | Alternative Codes | Color Name | Finish Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| W13 | CMW10013, DW, YX, QBB | White Pearl / Diamond White | Pearlescent Tri-coat |
| X42 | AC11342, C1, CAN, YY | Amethyst Black / Jet Black Mica | Pearlescent Metallic |
| U25 | CSU10025, KBV, XU7 | Titanium Gray / Alloy Silver | Metallic |
| P62 | CMP10062, XP2 | Red Diamond | Pearlescent Tri-coat |
| W37 | CMW10037, QBA | Wicked White / Igloo White | Solid |
| A31 | CMA10031, CC, CE | Cool Silver / Blade Silver | Metallic |
When you find both a short code and a longer alternative code on your tag — for example, A68 and AC11268 together — quote both to your paint supplier. That gives them the best chance of matching the exact formula.
Don’t Order by Color Name — Ever
This point deserves its own section because it trips people up constantly.
Color names are marketing tools, not technical specifications. The exact same code X42 appears as “Amethyst Black Pearl,” “Labrador Black Pearl,” “Jet Black Mica,” and “Tarmac Black Pearl” depending on the model and year. A supplier searching only for “Jet Black Mica” without the code could pull a completely different manufacturer’s formula.
It gets worse with time. “Bright White” in 1995 has a completely different chemical formula than “Bright White” in 2025. The name stays the same — the paint doesn’t.
Always use the alphanumeric code. That’s the only thing your paint mixing software actually needs.
One More Thing: Wheels and Trim Are Different
Your exterior body paint code doesn’t apply to plastic trim pieces, alloy wheels, or textured bumper surfaces. These components use different coatings entirely. Matching your body code to a bumper repair will leave you with a noticeable mismatch. Verify the finish type and coating requirements separately for any non-body panel work.
Find your code, verify the finish type, and your repair starts from a solid foundation — not a guess.
