Ford Paint Code UX: The Complete Guide to Ingot Silver Metallic

Got a chip, scratch, or scuff on your Ingot Silver Ford? Finding the right paint and applying it correctly makes the difference between a clean fix and a blotchy mess. This guide covers everything about Ford paint code UX — what it is, where to find it, what to buy, and how to apply it without ruining your finish. Stick around, because the metallic flake section alone will save you a lot of frustration.

What Is Ford Paint Code UX?

Ford paint code UX is the factory designation for Ingot Silver Metallic, one of Ford’s most widely used silver finishes. It’s been in active production since the late 2000s through the 2026 model year, which means millions of vehicles on US roads carry this exact color.

It’s a true metallic finish. That means it contains suspended aluminum flakes that reflect light and give the paint its signature bright, industrial sheen. It’s also a practical choice — the metallic surface hides road grime, dust, salt, and minor surface scratches better than most solid colors.

Here’s why knowing the exact code matters: the same color has multiple manufacturer codes depending on the brand, assembly plant, and model year. Using the wrong code when ordering touch-up paint means you get the wrong mix.

Always cross-reference before you order. A refinishing supplier may list it as M7226A or PN4AG, but it’s the same paint.

Which Ford Vehicles Use Paint Code UX?

The short answer: a lot of them. UX was applied across Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury platforms spanning compact cars, performance vehicles, luxury SUVs, and heavy-duty trucks.

One thing worth noting: Ford has started transitioning away from UX in some newer lineups. In the Transit and Cargo Van range, Ingot Silver Metallic (UX) was replaced by Iconic Silver Metallic (paint code JS), which has a slightly different tint and flake structure. If you own a newer Transit, double-check your door jamb sticker before ordering.

Where to Find Your Paint Code on a Ford

You don’t need to guess your paint code. Ford prints it directly on the vehicle. Open the driver’s door and look at the sticker on the door jamb or the B-pillar. It’s usually a white label with a string of codes — look for “EXT” followed by a two-letter code. That’s your paint code. On UX vehicles, you’ll see UX listed there.

If the sticker is worn or missing, your VIN can help. Contact a Ford dealer or use an online VIN decoder, and they’ll pull the factory color code from the build record.

The Mottling Problem: Why Metallic Paint Is Tricky

This is the part most DIYers skip — and it’s exactly why their repairs look wrong.

Because UX contains aluminum flakes, the way those flakes land and orient during application directly controls how the finished paint looks. The flakes act like microscopic mirrors, reflecting light specularly to produce that metallic glow. But when the flakes cluster or stand at odd angles, you get a defect called mottling — also called tiger-striping or clouding.

Mottled paint looks blotchy, streaky, or darker in patches. Here’s what causes it:

• Applying paint too wet or thick — heavy coats keep solvents liquid too long, giving the aluminum flakes time to drift and clump together
• Holding the can or gun too close — forces paint onto the surface too concentrated, disrupting uniform flake placement
• Cold or humid conditions — temperatures below 40°F or high humidity slow solvent evaporation, extending the window where flakes can move around

The fix is simple in theory: apply light, dry coats and give each layer proper flash time. In practice, it takes patience.

Touch-Up Paint Products for Ford UX — What to Buy

Several product tiers exist for US consumers, from quick pen fixes to professional spray kits. Here’s a breakdown of what’s available and what it costs:

For small rock chips, the Dupli-Color AFM0414 scratch fix pen is the most accessible option — it’s sold at AutoZone, O’Reilly, and Advance Auto Parts. For anything larger than a chip, go with a spray solution or a custom-mixed kit.

How to Apply Ford Paint Code UX Correctly

Step 1 — Surface Prep

Wash the repair area with mild automotive soap, rinse, and dry completely. Then wipe the spot with isopropyl alcohol or a prep solvent on a lint-free cloth. This removes wax, grease, and silicone — all of which kill paint adhesion.

If there’s rust or deep damage, sand it down with 180-grit sandpaper, then refine it with 320-grit. Finish by wiping away all sanding dust with a tack rag before moving to primer.

Step 2 — Primer

Apply two to three light coats of sandable primer, waiting five to ten minutes between coats. If you’re working on a plastic bumper, apply an adhesion promoter first.

Once dry, wet-sand the repair zone with 600-grit, then blend the outer edges with 1,500-grit to feather it into the surrounding paint. Wipe clean with water and dry thoroughly.

Step 3 — Basecoat Application

This is the critical stage for UX. Your environment matters here:

• Temperature: 65–75°F is the sweet spot
• Humidity: 40–60% relative humidity
• Avoid: temperatures below 40°F or high humidity days

Shake the paint vigorously for at least 60 seconds to properly suspend the aluminum flakes. Apply several light, dry passes — not one or two heavy wet coats. Hold the can or gun 6–8 inches from the surface, overlap each pass by 50%, and wait 5–10 minutes between coats.

For the final layer, mist a “control coat” from double your normal spraying distance. This dry mist flattens and orients the aluminum flakes uniformly, eliminating any mottling or tiger-striping. Don’t wet-sand the basecoat — you’ll disrupt the metal flakes and ruin the finish.

Step 4 — Clearcoat and Cure

Wait 30 minutes after the final basecoat layer, then apply two to three clearcoat layers with 10–20 minutes between each. If using a brush or sponge applicator, float the clear gently — don’t drag it or you’ll pull the basecoat beneath.

Let the repair cure overnight before polishing. Use a rubbing compound to build gloss. Don’t wax the fresh paint for at least 30 days — the solvents need to outgas fully before you seal the surface.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The repair looks darker than the rest of the panel. This is a flake orientation problem, not a color mismatch. The aluminum flakes are standing vertically or clumping instead of lying flat. Applying paint too wet causes this. Apply a dry misting coat and give it proper drying time.

The scratch fix pen made the damage worse. The abrasive fiberglass tip on the Dupli-Color AFM0414 is designed for rust removal — pressing too hard on a small chip turns it into a gouge. Use a fine-tip 0.7mm artist pen for precise chip filling instead.

Paint spilled when opening the pen. Hold the dual-chamber pen upright before opening either chamber. Tilting it sideways before the cap is off sends liquid straight onto your panel.

The basecoat dried with visible streaks. Usually caused by spray gun distance being too close or coats applied too heavy. Start over with light, controlled passes and use the dry misting technique on the final coat.

Is UX Still in Production?

Ford paint code UX is still actively used across most of its lineup through 2026, but newer models like the Transit are switching to Iconic Silver Metallic (code JS). The two colors are visually similar but aren’t interchangeable — the flake structure and tint differ enough to cause a visible mismatch on any panel you repaint.

Always verify your door jamb sticker before ordering. The volume of UX-coated vehicles still on US roads makes it easy to source from PaintScratch, ScratchesHappen, AutoZone, O’Reilly, and Advance Auto Parts — so supply isn’t a concern. The challenge is always application, not availability.