6 Causes Of Ford Explorer AC Not Working

Is your Ford Explorer blasting hot air when it should be keeping you cool? Nothing ruins a summer drive quite like a malfunctioning AC system. Whether you’re dealing with weak airflow, warm air, or a completely dead cooling system, you’re about to discover the most common causes and fixes for your Explorer’s AC problems.

The Top Reasons Your Ford Explorer AC Isn’t Working

1. Low Refrigerant Levels

Low refrigerant is the most common culprit behind a failing AC system in Ford Explorers. Your AC needs the right amount of refrigerant to effectively cool the air.

Signs of low refrigerant include:

  • Lukewarm air coming from vents
  • AC that works only occasionally
  • Air that starts cool but quickly turns warm

The Explorer is notorious for developing refrigerant leaks in the rear evaporator lines, especially under the silver sleeve behind the left rear tire. These leaks happen because the aluminum lines corrode over time, particularly in 2013-2019 models.

2. Refrigerant Leaks

If your system keeps losing refrigerant, you’ve got a leak. Common leak locations in Ford Explorers include:

Leak Location Symptoms Repair Difficulty
Rear evaporator lines Intermittent cooling Moderate-High
Condenser (front of radiator) No cooling, visible damage Moderate
Hose connections Oily residue at connection points Low-Moderate
Evaporator core Sweet smell, water inside cabin High

The 2020 models built before August 19, 2019, have a known issue with thermostatic expansion valve leaks, which Ford has addressed in a technical service bulletin.

3. Electrical Problems

Even with a perfect refrigerant charge, electrical issues can prevent your AC from working.

Blown Fuses

The AC system relies on multiple fuses, and if any of them blow, your cooling system can fail. Check these locations:

  • Passenger compartment fuse box: Fuses #35 and #46
  • Engine compartment fuse box: Fuses #18, #39, #62, #70, #89, and #93

Use your owner’s manual to locate these fuse boxes, as locations vary slightly between model years.

Bad Relays

The AC clutch relay is crucial for the compressor to engage. If it fails, your compressor won’t run at all.

Check relay #32, #34, and #98 in the engine compartment fuse box. A quick test is to swap it with a similar relay (like the horn relay) to see if that solves the problem.

4. Compressor Issues

The compressor is the heart of your AC system, and problems here mean no cooling.

Clutch Not Engaging

When you turn on your AC, the compressor clutch should engage with an audible click. If it doesn’t, causes might include:

  • Low refrigerant (the system won’t engage below a certain pressure)
  • Bad clutch relay
  • Blown fuse
  • Failed clutch

To check if your clutch is engaging, look at the front of the compressor with the engine running and AC on MAX. You should see the center portion of the pulley spinning along with the outer ring.

Complete Compressor Failure

The compressor can fail due to:

  • Internal damage
  • Lack of lubrication
  • Age and wear
  • Contamination in the system

Unfortunately, compressor replacement isn’t a simple DIY job as it requires specialized equipment to properly evacuate and recharge the system.

5. Airflow Problems

Sometimes the AC compressor is working fine, but you’re still not feeling cool air.

Clogged Cabin Air Filter

A dirty cabin air filter restricts airflow dramatically. This filter is usually located:

  • Behind the glove box in most Explorer models
  • Under the dashboard passenger side
  • In the engine compartment (less common)

This is an easy and inexpensive fix that often gets overlooked. Filters should be replaced every 12,000-15,000 miles or sooner if you drive in dusty conditions.

Blower Motor Issues

The blower motor pushes air through your vents. Problems include:

  • Complete failure (no air at all)
  • Weak airflow
  • Strange noises when running

If your blower motor isn’t working properly, you might need to check the blower motor resistor, which controls fan speeds.

6. Control System Problems

Sometimes the issue isn’t with the cooling components but with the system that controls them.

Blend Door Actuator Failure

The blend door controls where air flows in your Explorer’s HVAC system. When it fails, you might experience:

  • Hot air when you want cold
  • Air coming out of unexpected vents
  • Clicking noises from the dashboard

This is a common problem in 2011-2015 Explorers, often causing air to switch unexpectedly to defrost mode.

Pressure Switch Problems

Your Explorer has pressure switches that monitor the system and shut it down if pressure gets too high or low. A faulty switch can prevent the AC from working even when everything else is fine.

DIY Diagnosis: How to Check Your Explorer’s AC

Step 1: Basic Visual Inspection

  1. With the engine running and AC on MAX, look at the compressor (on the front of the engine, driven by a belt).
  2. Check if the center part of the front pulley is spinning.
  3. Look for obvious refrigerant leaks – they appear as oily spots or residue on components.
  4. Inspect for damaged components or disconnected electrical connectors.

Step 2: Check Your Fuses

  1. Locate the fuse boxes using your owner’s manual.
  2. Check all AC-related fuses using a test light or multimeter.
  3. Replace any blown fuses with the same amperage rating.

Step 3: Test Airflow

  1. Set the fan to maximum speed. Do you feel strong airflow?
  2. If airflow is weak, check and replace the cabin air filter.
  3. Listen for unusual noises from the blower motor.

Step 4: Add Refrigerant (Cautiously)

If you’re comfortable with basic car maintenance, you can try adding refrigerant:

  1. Purchase R-134a refrigerant (for 2020 and newer models, check if they use R-1234yf).
  2. Follow the instructions on the can carefully.
  3. Only add refrigerant if the system is completely empty or very low.

Be careful not to overcharge the system – this can cause more damage than an undercharged system.

Model-Specific Issues to Watch For

2013-2019 Ford Explorer

These models commonly experience rear evaporator line leaks. The aluminum lines corrode, especially under the silver sleeve behind the left rear tire. The repair often involves replacing the entire line assembly.

2011-2015 Ford Explorer

These years have frequent blend door actuator problems that cause air to suddenly switch to defrost mode or blow hot when it should be cold.

2020-2022 Ford Explorer

Some early 2020 models have known issues with thermostatic expansion valve leaks, which Ford has documented in a technical service bulletin.

Professional Repair Costs

If you decide to have a professional handle your AC issues, here’s what you might expect to pay:

Repair Estimated Cost
AC System Diagnosis $122-$179
Refrigerant Recharge $100-$200
Compressor Replacement $1,200-$2,000
Rear Evaporator Line Replacement $400-$800
Blend Door Actuator $250-$400
Cabin Air Filter Replacement $50-$100

Preventative Maintenance Tips

Keep your Explorer’s AC running strong with these maintenance tips:

  1. Replace the cabin air filter every 12,000-15,000 miles.
  2. Run your AC system for 10 minutes at least once a week, even in winter.
  3. Listen for unusual noises when the AC compressor engages.
  4. Have your system inspected annually before summer hits.
  5. Address small issues before they become major problems.

The Best DIY Fixes

Replacing Your Cabin Air Filter

This 15-minute job can dramatically improve airflow:

  1. Open your glove box and remove the limiting stops on each side.
  2. Lower the glove box completely.
  3. Squeeze the tabs on the filter cover and remove it.
  4. Pull out the old filter and note which way the airflow arrow points.
  5. Install the new filter with the arrow pointing the same way.
  6. Replace the cover and glove box.

Checking and Replacing Fuses

  1. Use your owner’s manual to find the fuse box locations.
  2. Look for the diagram on the fuse box cover that identifies AC fuses.
  3. Use fuse pullers (usually located in the fuse box) to remove and inspect fuses.
  4. A blown fuse has a broken metal strip inside the clear section.
  5. Replace with the same amperage fuse.

Testing AC Pressure

If you have access to AC manifold gauges:

  1. Connect the blue hose to the low-pressure port (usually on the larger aluminum line).
  2. With the engine running and AC on MAX, check the pressure reading.
  3. Normal low-side pressure should be 30-45 PSI (varies with temperature).
  4. If pressure is below 30 PSI, you likely have a leak or low refrigerant.

When to Call a Professional

While some AC issues can be fixed at home, others require professional equipment and expertise:

  1. If you’ve confirmed a refrigerant leak but can’t locate it.
  2. When adding refrigerant doesn’t solve the problem.
  3. If the compressor isn’t engaging despite checking fuses and relays.
  4. For evaporator core or condenser replacement.
  5. When you need major components replaced.

Most professional shops use specialized leak detection equipment, including UV dyes and electronic leak detectors that can find problems impossible to spot with the naked eye.

Your Ford Explorer’s AC system is complex but understanding the common failure points can help you diagnose problems quickly. Whether you tackle the repair yourself or take it to a professional, addressing AC issues promptly will keep you cool and prevent more expensive damage down the road.

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  • As an automotive engineer with a degree in the field, I'm passionate about car technology, performance tuning, and industry trends. I combine academic knowledge with hands-on experience to break down complex topics—from the latest models to practical maintenance tips. My goal? To share expert insights in a way that's both engaging and easy to understand. Let's explore the world of cars together!

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